Hebridean Hangover

Bogbean: the smartest of watery plants

The Wild (North) West: central Lewis

Three weeks since the trip to Lewis and Harris, and somehow the memories become more intense with time. The weather did not disappoint - generally dull, cool and, for the last three days, outrageously windy - but when the sun did appear it illuminated some extraordinary scenery. The centre of Lewis is seriously wild country, a tweedy landscape of moorland, mountain and bog; Harris rather softer, with those white beaches and cobalt bays much beloved of the Scottish tourist board. Our base was on Lewis at Marvig, a village that had been largely spared the rash of pebbledash that is the hallmark of almost all other settlements on the islands and was handily located for forays onto the moors and into the Pairc Estate, also known as South Lochs. We came here for eagles, and had an extraordinary sequence of sightings: a starter white-tailed on the day we drove to find our rented cottage, and then nine sightings in one day, involving three goldens (a single plus a pair) and at least two pairs of white-taileds, all soaring low and giving fantastic views. Cavorting otters in a loch and a black-throated diver (its mate unseen, but apparently incubating somewhere on the bank) were the supporting cast on that day. Towards the end of the week, on our last full day, an adult white-tailed sat watching us as we paused for a final feast of drumming snipe on the moors. It then took off, soaring over our heads and then reappearing a short way down the road for a final flypast, pursued by gulls, before we reached Marvig. Magnificent. We saw 76 bird species in total, some highlights below plus other Hebrides stuff....

Our first eagle: an adult white-tailed, sitting on a ridge above
the approach road to Marvig. Note the third eyelid!!

Hebridean wren - still recognised as a distinct sub-species - doing its
thing in the grounds of Lews Castle, Stornoway

Wildflowers were rather disappointing - too early in the season for so far north, with marsh marigolds and violets still in full flower and not a lot else. These Welsh poppies were in the grounds of Lews Castle. Further afield, on the open moor, it was lousewort and milkwort mainly, with a few heath spotted orchids and butterworts. 

Lews Castle grounds - one of the few areas of woodland on Lewis, and with an impressive range of trees and plants, thanks to the extravagant planting of Victorian millionaire James Matheson. This is almost the only place on the island where birds such as blackcap and chiffchaff maintain a presence. The Hebrides only rookery is here too. 

Lews Castle, currently under restoration.

Castle lodge

Stornoway waterfront

Marvig Harbour

The cottage at Marvig - formerly the village post office

Underrated but totally beautiful: genuine wild Rock Dove. There were several pairs around Marvig.

On our first full day we stopped to look over an interesting tract of moorland when a small flock of golden plover and dunlins dropped down right in front of us. Very confiding and busy feeding, so perhaps en route further north.

Dunnocks were regular in the cottage garden - note the midges in the air! Not a problem during our stay, but doubtless increasingly irksome through the summer...

Anther garden regular. A family of young robins were usually in
evidence; also a brood of stonechats.

Harris, looking towards Luskentyre

A Sedge Warbler hard at it in a bed of Rugosa at Northton; amazing to think
he had winged it all the way from Africa to set up his stall on the edge of the North Atlantic....

I'm used to seeing Whooper Swans by the hundred and more in winter in East Anglia,
but a single bird on a Hebridean loch - and the prospect of a mate on a nest nearby – was
somehow infinitely more exciting!

One of our most extraordinary discoveries was a heronry in a
small stand of pines not far from Marvig

We expected to see lots of Twite but only managed a single pair, at Luskentyre

Restored blackhouses at Gearranan

Some former blackhouse inhabitants: loving the housecoats, ladies!

The wild north coast, looking towards Little Bernera

The revelation of the springtime Hebrides: great northern divers in
breeding plumage! We saw plenty, and at close range

The last eagle!






Final sunset with Greta Garbo......